Did you ever wonder how to sew a fancy cushion cover with piping?
You want a professional-looking pillowcase with piping on the edges?
Here is a super easy step step by step tutorial.
Since 'tis is the season' I will use my happy Santa Head quilt block for this tutorial.
Materials needed: (for a pillowcase aprox. 15.5"x 15.5" finished)
- quilt block 12"x 12" plus 28 2 1/2 " squares around the quilt block
or a 16"x 16" quilt block
(or of course a 16"x 16" piece of fabric if you don't want to use a quilt block as pillowcase front)
- for the back 2 pieces of fabric 16"x 13"
- 70" piping - either store bought piping or you can make your own piping.
- square shaped cushion insert. Either you purchase a new insert or reuse one of your existing pillow inserts.
- Sewing machine, acrylic ruler, scissors, pins or clips.
1. Sew your quilt block , or cut your fabric for the pillowcase front accordingly.
2. Attach the 2 1/2" squares to your quilt block ( if you're making a pillowcase like the one
I am using here. You will find a full tutorial on a pillowcase with fussy cut squares like this one here and I also made a little quick video)
3: Preparing the back
Fold over one of the 16" edge on each of the fabric pieces for the back.
Fold over 1/2 " twice and clip in place.
Then stitch along the edge with a small seam allowance.
If you have directional fabric, make sure the fabric pieces are both facing the same direction, and that you fold in the edges that face each other.
4. Stitch the hem in place with a small seam allowance.
5. Overlap the hemmed edges so that the back becomes the same hight as the front
( 16" in this case here) and clip the overlapping edges in place and stitch with 1/8" seam allowance to hold it in place.
Attaching the piping:
6. Now you start pinning or clipping the piping in place, I definitely prefer clips.
I always hurt myself using pins. So clips it is.
Take the front of your pillowcase and start clipping the piping to the edge. I like starting a couple of inches from the corner roughly at the center of one side.
The stitching of the piping should be in line with your seam allowance.
Since this will be the line that you will sew on.
In my case it's 1/4" seam allowance. The seam allowance of my piping is also 1/4" ( from the edge of the tape to the stitching) so align the raw edges of the pillowcase front and the piping.
7. Work the corners. In order to avoid wobbly crooked corners, carefully clip the edge of the binding to help it bend around the corner. Make sure you do not cut into the stitching line of the piping. You can see in the photo, that the inner piping wrinkles slightly, this will straighten once you turn your pillowcase inside out.
8. Clip the piping all the way around the pillowcase front until you get to where you started
there you overlap the ends of the piping for about 2"-3" and leave it open.
9. Stitch the piping to the pillowcase front. Make sure you stitch on the same line as the stitch line of the piping. This ensures a perfect looking piping once you turn the pillowcase inside out. This way you won't see the stitches of the piping on the outside of your pillow.
So I can not stress enough:
ALWAYS STITCH ON THE SAME STITCH LINE!
Leave the ends of the piping loose, meaning you don't stitch these in place yet.
How to join the ends of the piping properly?
There are different ways to joining the ends, I personally like this one the best, and find it the easiest.
10. Leave the piping to overlap about a 2"-3". Leave these ends loose.
11. Open the stitching of the piping on one of these ends (I will call them left and right end in this tutorial to make life easier, but it really doesn't matter which end you take)
So again, open the stitching of the right piping and expose the cord.
12. Cut the extra piece of cord on the right, that you exposed. Your goal is to lay the left end of the piping inside the bias tape on the right and wrap it inside the bias tape.
13. Fold in the bias tape on the right about 1/4".
14. Now cut the left end of the piping to where the cord ends. So that the two ends of the cord touch.
15. Wrap this end into the left bias tape and clip or pin in place.
16. To finish your piping, stitch the piping in place.
Again make sure you are stitching on the stitch line of the piping.
Perfect, now you stitched the piping in place.
All you need to do now, is attach the backing of the pillowcase and you're all done.
17. Clip the backing to the pillowcase front. I like the opening of the back to be the top overlapping the bottom, but some people want the left overlapping the right, or the other way around. You decide for yourself, it's a square so it doesn't matter which way you place the backing to the front of the pillowcase size wise.
18. Stitch the backing to the front, and again...don't laugh please, you will thank me later....
Stitch on the same stitching line again!
Then turn your pillowcase inside out... and YAYYY all finished!
What do you think? Doesn't this look fabulous? And it's super easy, right?
Just in case you are wondering, you will find the Santa Quilt block here.
Happy sewing and Happy Holidays
You know how to make your own bias tape, but you always wondered how to make your own piping? You're asking yourself how can I make my own corded piping?
What is piping for sewing? Or what kind of piping do I refer to here?
I am talking about a trim or edging around a pillowcase or bag, that typically consists of a thin strip of fabric, usually a bias tape with a cord inside. This narrow tube is attached to the edges of decorative items such as pillowcases, garments or bags to enhance the edges or give the items a more defined or professional look.
- Bias tape
- clips or pins
- sewing machine, zipper foot, needle and thread
The piping cords come in all different sizes and qualities and most importantly thicknesses. So depending on your project you can choose a very thin cord or a really thick one. I used a medium cord for this tutorial it's 1/4" (6mm) diameter.
You will be sewing very close to the cord, so a zipper foot is extremely helpful.
1. To start you will need diagonal ( 45° angle) fabric strips, also called bias tape.
The fabric will be wrapped around your cord so the bias tape has to have the width according to the circumference of your cord.
This means, you need to measure the circumference of your cord ( not diameter of your cord) then add the seam allowance twice and that gives you the width of your bias strips.
2. You need to measure the circumference of your cord, mine was 5/8" in circumference
(not to be confused with diameter!)
Then you add your seam allowance (1/4" in my case) twice, and there you have your width of the bias tape:
circumference of cord + 2 x seam allowance = width of bias tape
In my case: 5/8" + 2 x 1/4" = 9/8" or 1 1/8"
3. Fold your bias tape in half, aligning the raw long edges. Place your cord in-between the folded bias tape. As you know, I prefer clips so here you can see, I clip this cord/ bias tape sandwich in place, but you can also use pins. If you're using pins you can either pin along the cord or you can place your pins vertically, depending on your personal preferance.
If you want to be very neat, you can now hand baste along the piping with large running stitches, before you machine stitch your piping.
I have to admit, when I first learned how to sew, from my Mum ( she was a home economics teacher) I had to hand baste everything. I wasn't very happy about that , as you can imagine, since it took so much time.
But it helped immensely and my sewing was a lot straighter and neater than in would have been without the hand basting.
As you can see, these days I am not as neat and prefer a couple more clips.
4. Now stitch along the cord with a zipper foot. This allows you to get as close as possible to the cord. This tutorial is with a zipper foot, since most machines come with a zipper foot or most people have a zipper foot for their machines.
Side note here: I turned the zipper foot of my PFAFF sewing machine the other way around so I can see more of my stitches. I wish this foot would come in clear acrylic, that would be perfect.
(If you have a piping foot for your sewing machine, that's a different story. Then you place the cord under the round part of your piping foot and move your needle the side so you can stitch along the edge of the cord.)
5. And here it is, your very own individually hand made piping. This was easy peasy, right ?
And here is a tutorial on how to use this piping in a project, and how to sew it into a pillowcase the super easy way.
Check out this quick video with the full instructions....
Cheers to a successful making of your piping :-)
Do you ever wonder where certain Christmas traditions come from?
Well if you do and want to know more about Christmas stockings here is the story:
The Christmas stocking tradition started in Europe, I have to add, a lot of Christmas traditions have, not sure why though, I have to get into that some other time.
Christmas stockings traditionally have the owners name written on them, makes sense, otherwise Santa wouldn't know where to put the presents, right?
" The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
in hopes that St.Nicholas soon would be there."
- a visit from St. Nicolas
Why People Hang Stockings
The Christmas stocking tradition is said to have started with the good deeds of a king noble man named Nicholas, who was born 280 AD, in Patara a city on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. ( If you ever visit Turkey , you have to visit that coast, it's beyond beautiful).
Nicholas became a priest and used all his money to help the poor, the needy, sick or suffering. He was very religious and was made Bishop of Myra at a young age.
He never married or had children. But he loved children and gave gifts often, this is why he also became known as the gift giver of Myra.
He was a rich man and traveled all over the country and gave his gifts generously.
He didn't want his identity to be known, so he gave his presents late at night.
Children were told to sleep early, otherwise Nicholas wouldn't come.
He became known as Saint Nicholas the patron saint of children and sailors.
The most popular legend about why stockings are hung on Christmas is this:
A very poor widowed father of three girls was worried his daughters weren't able to get married because of their impoverished status.
St. Nicholas heard the story of the man and wanted to help, but he knew the father wouldn't accept any charity. So he slid down the chimney of the family's house and filled the girls' recently washed stockings, which were drying by the fire, with gold coins.
When the girls woke up in the morning, overjoyed with the generous gift, they were now eligible to marry and they all were happy ever after...
And there you have it, the Christmas stocking tradition was born.
How To Make a Christmas Stocking From Hexies
Now lets make some great Christmas stockings ourselves:
Fabrics needed for a Hexie stocking:
- fabric scraps for about 42 - 1" hexies
- 2 pieces of fusible interfacicing 16"x 9"
- 2 pieces of fabric 16"x 9" for front and back lining
- 1 piece of fabric 16"x 9" for the back
- 1 strip of fabric 2"x 28" for binding
- optional: tassels, fabric hangtag
To make this process easier, you can download our Christmas stocking template.
Sewing the hexie Christmas stocking:
1. Print the stocking template and glue the two pages together and cut out the template.
Find the PDF to the template here .
2. Baste about 42 - 1" sized hexies and place them on your stocking template. Depending on how you place them, you'll only need half hexies on the sides.
This is a perfect way to use up all your adorable Christmas fabric scaps and do some
Even if you don't feel like using Christmas fabrics for your Christmas stockings, they look especially cute with all sorts of other fabrics too. I could not resist and had to make some with this uber adorable fabric line from Riley Blake Designs called 'Quilt Fair' by Tasha Noel.
Don't you agree, Christmas stockings in 'non-Christmas-fabrics' are equally cute?
But let's get on with our sewing.
3. Sew together your hexies.
Add the fusible interfacing to your 'hexie fabric' piece and add the lining as well, wrong sides together and quilt as desired.
I quilted diamonds.
Repeat the same for the back of the stocking. Add the fusible interfacing to the back fabric, add the lining fabric wrong sides together and quilt as desired.
4. Now cut your quilted pieces into stocking shapes , use the stocking template.
5. Place front and back of your Christmas stocking right sides together and stitch along the outside edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.
6. Turn your stocking inside out.
Attach the binding strip to the top edge of your stocking right sides together and raw edges aligned. Add a little hanging tab to the back of your stocking made out of the same binding strip. Clip or pin in place and stitch along the top edge with a 1/4" seam allowance.
Fold over to the inside and stitch in place by hand.
Add pompoms and/or tassels.
8. Make a little name tag.
I used white fabric and embroidered the name on it. I added some fusible interfacing, to give it a little volume and topped it off with another piece of white fabric.
I stitched the 'sandwhich' in place with a small piece of fussy cut motif and cut the outer edge of the white fabric with zig zag shears.
Add a metal eyelet, or just use a hole punch and thread a little ribbon.
Attach your name tag to your stocking.
Et Voila .... all done!
Now let your phantasie go wild and create stockings with all sorts of different patchwork techniques and styles. Whether you're using clamshells, triangles, hexies or just simple squares, these Christmas stockings will definitely make a lasting impression.
If you are celebrating Christmas, What's your choice of Christmas stocking?
Are you making one yourself? let me know in the comments.
Are you always as short on Christmas gift ideas as I am?
I am trying to collect all sorts of ideas all year around, so when it gets close to Christmas
I have a few DIY projects lined up.
This is one of those projects, a DIY fabric matchbox cover.
It's a perfect Christmas gift for him or her .... a fabric matchbox cover is super decorative and who doesn't need matches? It's actually a very nice gift for all year around.
Best of all, these decorated matchbox covers are super easy and quick to make, and a perfect scrap buster.
So lets get started...
- an assortment of large matchboxes ( the ones I used are 2.5" wide, 4.3/8" long and 3/4" deep )
- fabric scraps for the Star quilt block and the side and the back of the matchbox
( depending on the size you're making, of course)
For the matchbox size that I used, it is
- 2 strips of 1.5"x 3" of fabric for the sides of the quilt block.
- I piece of fabric 5"x 4" for the back
Sewing machine and thread.
1.Open the side
Open the side of your matchbox where it's glued together. I used a sharp knife.
That way you can easily sew your fabric onto the cardboard matchbox.
Glueing it to the matchbox is an alternative, but I find that the glue shines through the fabric and stains it sometimes, especially when you're using solid fabrics.
So the decorative matchboxes look much nicer, when you sew the fabrics onto the matchbox.
2. Sew the star quilt block in size 2.5"x 2.5"
3. Prepare your matchbox
In case you have printed matchboxes like the ones I am using, I suggest painting the matchbox with a light colored acrylic paint, just so the print of the matchbox won't shine through your fabric cover.
The painting does not have to be perfect, do just one coat of paint so the print of the cardboard box is covered.
And let it dry.
4. Cut your fabrics for your matchbox cover
As I mentioned above, I cut two strips of fabric 1.5"x 3" for the sides of the quilt block.
And I cut a piece of fabric 5"x 4" for the back of the matchbox. And this piece of fabric is 5" wide and 4" long, in case you have directional fabric , like I do.
5. Sew the fabric pieces together
First add the two side strips to the quilt block to the left and to the right, then add the backing piece of fabric and press. I used spray starch to press the fabric. So it stays really nice and flat.
Fold over the front edge 1/4" and press.
Fold in the side edges 1/4" as well, so the width of the fabric matches the width of your matchbox. This might be a tiny bit more than 1/4", you might want to adjust it a little bit as you clip your cover to the matchbox.
6. Clip the cover to the matchbox
Clip the fabric cover onto the matchbox. Start at the front edge, at the strip for striking the matches, and work your way to the other end. Adjust the side edges if needed. Fold in the end edge under as well and clip in place.
7. Stitch the matchbox cover to the matchbox
Starting at the front edge, stitch the matchbox cover in place.
I sewed all the way around the outside edge first and then stiched straight lines to the back side.
Then I stitched all the way around the star as well.
8. Glue the matchbox cover back together
9. Et voilà.... all done.
Fabrics used in this project Art Gallery Fabrics Cozy and Magical.
Isn't this DIY matchbox cover a super cute Christmas gift? Combine the matchbox with a set of candles or some essential oils and you have the perfect Christmas gift for him or her.
What do you think?
Which color of the star quilt block is your favorite?
Are you all as hopeful as I am, that traveling season will start soon again?
This was something I really missed in the last 15 months. I bet all of you as well?
More and more people are getting vaccinated and this means for all of us, that we're slowly getting back to normal.
I am sooo looking forward to this.
After 15 months of lockdown, more or less strict and 15 months of homeschooling two teenage daughters, you know that I really miss getting away :-)
Therefore I decided our passports need some dressing up and I made this cute little passport holder pattern.
The Airplane pattern is a super quick and easy foundation paper piecing pattern and suits this passport wallet perfectly, don't you think.
I used the 4"x 4" size for the outer piece of the passport cover.
I decided on a new sewing project to enhance our passports... this fabric passport holder looks just so much cuter going through passport control, don't you agree?
So let's get to sewing this cute passport holder/ passport cover with the cutest paper pieced airplane quilt block.
Materials needed: ( this is the size for a European Passport )
Most passports are very similar in size, (as you maybe know, we have a few nationalities in our family)
the European passport is about 1/8" to 1/4" wider than the others.
To double check the right size for your passport cover, fold the passport open add 1/8" all the way around the passport and then add 1/4" seam allowance, that will be the size of your lining and outer piece.
- 1 airplane quilt block size 4"x 4"
- 1 piece of fabric 4.5"x 4.5" (same as the background fabric of the airplane block )
- 2 strips of fabric 1 1/4" x 8.5" (same as the background fabric of the airplane block )
- 8 1/4" x 5 7/8" for the lining
- 2 x 4" x 5 7/8" for the pockets
- 8 1/4" x 5 7/8" very thin fusible batting (optional but this gives a bit more stand I used Vlieseline H180)
1. Sew your airplane quilt block in 4"x 4" size.
Cut all your fabrics, lining and batting pieces.
Stitch the fabric pieces for the outer piece together the way its shown here in the assembly photo.
Join the two squares first, then add the two strips of fabric at the top and bottom.
2. Iron on fusible batting to the wrong side of the outer piece of the passport holder.
Cut the outer piece to 8 1/4" x 5 7/8". ( check the size with your own passport as shown above)
Fold the pocket pieces in half aligning the longer raw edges and press. Then place these two on the outer piece aligning the left and right raw edges.
3. Place the lining piece on top of the outer piece with the two pockets,
right sides together, pin or clip in place.
4. Stitch around the outer edge with 1/4" seam allowance leave a 3" opening at the bottom longer edge for turning your passport holder or passport wallet later.
Cut the corners at a 45° angle, that gives you nice crisp corners when turning the passport holder inside out.
Close the opening with a small seam allowance.
And YAY you're all done .
Happy and save travels everyone.... I'm off to stitch a few more in other colors.
PS: let me know what colors you are making , can't wait to see your photos on social media.
Doesn't this happen to you all the time as well?
You have tons of the cutest fabric scraps left over? But of course you don't want to throw them out?
I like quick and easy projects with these fabrics, so I don't end up collecting tons and tons of fabric pieces, which I do anyways, haha.
So here is another super pretty and easy pattern... this time for quilted oven mitts.
Materials needed: ( for one oven mitt)
size aprox. 7" wide x 11" high.
- 48 pieces of 2" fabric squares
( thank you Riley Blake Designs for this adorable fabric series
'spooky hollow' by Polkadotchair )
- 1 piece of fabric for the back 9.5"x 12.5"
- 2 pieces of fusible batting ( or insul brite if you wanted to ) 9.5"x 12.5"
- 2 pieces of lining fabric 9.5"x 12.5"
- 1 strip of fabric 2"x 5" for the hanging tab.
- 1 piece of bias cut binding strip 1.5" wide 17" long.
- printed oven mitt template
1. Cut all your fabric pieces. Cut 48 2" fabric squares.
And cut out the oven mitt template which you will find here.
2. Sew all the squares together.
The easiest way, will be chain piecing the squares. Here's a quick video on how to do this.
3. Once you have all the squares sewn together, attach them to the fusible batting or insul brite.
4. Place the patchwork top on top the lining piece of fabric, wrong sides together.
And quilt to your liking. I did quilt this with diagonal squares.
5. Iron the back piece of fabric on to the fusible batting and place on top of the lining piece wrong sides together.
Then quilt to your liking. I quilted diagonal squares here as well. I drew them onto the fabric with a fabric marker ( Koh-I-Noor Fabric pen, that can easily be dusted off after sewing).
6. Sewing the hanging tab:
Fold the piece of fabric for the hanging tab in half, aligning the long edges.
Sew along the long edge with 1/4" seam allowance and turn inside out.
7. Place the oven mitt template on the patchwork piece and draw around it with a 3/8" seam allowance.
Turn the template around ( so the wrong side is now facing you) and place it on the back piece and draw around the template again with a 3/8" seam allowance.
Cut out the oven mitt shape with zigzag shears, then draw the oven mitt shape on the lining side ( again I used the fabric pen, that can easily be dusted off)
8. Place front and back pieces wrong sides together .
Place the hanging tab between the two layers at the bottom corner facing the inside of the oven mitt. Sew along the drawn line, securing the hanging tab in the seam,
then cut back the seam allowance to 1/4 ".
9. Cut the seam allowance, between the hand and thumb part of the oven mitt,
all the way to the seam.
This makes sure you don't get weird pleats when turning the oven mitt inside out.
9. Turn oven mitt inside out and clip the binding strip to the outside and stitch with 1/4" seam allowance.
10. Fold over the binding to the inside and hand stitch in place.
And here we go you're all done.
So get your pots out and ... happy cooking.
What do you think? These adorable oven mitts are a great gift for any one, don't you agree?
How to sew the cutest coasters in less than 15 minutes...
We all have tons of fabric scraps left over from our sewing projects right?
That's why I love quick little projects to use all these cuties.
Here is one, that you will love and actually use as well.
Materials needed: ( for one coaster)
finished size: 5" circle
- 9 x 2" squares
- fusible batting 5"x 5"
- 1 piece of fabric for the back 5"x 5"
- binding strip ( bias cut, that's important! ) 18"x 1.5"
- If you want to make these coasters water proof, iron on some vinyl ( heat n bond)
before or after you quilt them ( note: the ones here are without vinyl).
Before you start:
Read the instructions carefully
Seam allowance is always 1⁄4” unless mentioned otherwise.
1. Cut out all your fabrics and batting as mentioned above.
2. Sew your 9 squares together.
Here is a quick video on how to piece these squares successfully.
3. Iron on the fusible batting and place on back piece of fabric wrong sides together.
Then quilt the square to your liking.
If you want to make these coasters water proof, iron on some vinyl ( Heat 'n Bond) before you quilt them .
4. Draw a circle on your quilted square and cut it out
5. Fold over the beginning of your binding strip 1/4" and then clip, pin ore clue your binding strip in place, along the outer edge of your circle.
Stitch along the outer edge with 1/4" seam allowance.
6. Fold over your binding to the back and fold it under 3/8" as shown in photo 1,
photo 2 shows the coaster from the front.
7. Now stitch binding in place from the front. Or hand stitch from the back, which ever way you prefer. It's super easy with the machine.... I feel good :-)
Here we go, all done...
What do you think? Easy and cute, right?
Happy coaster sewing.....
You know I love recycling and reusing. And you know I looove recycling and reusing fabric.
I roam through flea markets, garage sales, second hand and thrift stores and almost always find some pre-loved piece of fabric.
And I always buy old fashioned flat sheets, they're most often made of really thick cotton, or a cotton/linen mix, which is absolutely perfect for all sorts of sewing projects.
Especially dish cloths or napkins, but I also use them in quilts, key fobs, pouches and much more.
I wrote a whole blog on fabric recycling in case you want to know more.
Today I want to show you how to make the cutest dish towels with recycled cotton sheets and left over fabric scraps.
Materials/fabrics needed for 2 dish towels:
- 2 pieces of white fabric ( I use cotton table cloth or flat sheets for this, they're pre-washed so many times, that they work perfectly as dish cloths as they dry dishes very nicely) 20.5"x 27".
- 40 pieces of 2.5"x 2.5" fabric squares.
- 2 strips of fabric 2"x 5" for the hanging tab
Sewing the dish towels:
1. Cut your fabrics as mentioned above.
2. Sew your fabric squares into 4 strips of 10 squares each ( two strips per towel)
3. Press your seam allowances.
You can either seperate your seam allowances and press them each seperatly,
or press the seam allowances in opposite directions before joining your
fabric square strips. This is really easy and quick. (photo 1)
You press one strip in one direction and the other in the opposite direction,
this will help with nesting your seams and having accurate corners and matching points.
The seams sort of fit together automatically ( photo 2).
You end up with a perfectly flat fabric square panel. ( photo 3)
4. Fold over the long raw edges of your square panel 1/4" and press again
then pin or clip in place.
5. Place this panel on one of your white fabric pieces at 7", mesured from the bottom raw edge of your kitchen towel and pin in place.
6. Stich this panel in place with a small seam allowance. I also added some diagonal seams.
7. Sewing the hanging tab for the tea towel:
- Fold the 2"x 5" strip in half lengthwise and press. Fold in 1/2" seam allowance on each long raw edge and press again.
- Stitch with small seam allowance.
- Fold the tab in half and clip in place at the center of the back of your kitchen towel top edge.
8. Fold over the raw edges of your dish towel 3/8" twice and pin or clip in place.
I did just simple corners on these tea towels, but if you want to get really fancy you could do mitered corners as well.
9. To finish stitch all the way around your kitchen towel.
What do you think about these kitchen towels? Don't you agree they're ...... :-)?
Now I cant wait to see all of your tea towel versions...
use #dryinstyletowel on social media, so I can find your makes .... happy sewing.
Do you ever wonder what to do with all those super cute fabric scraps that are left over from your sewing projects?
Well, here are a couple of pincushion ideas for you to sew up with the smallest fabric pieces.
Now you might wonder how I get those fabric scraps color coordinated, and how I will find them when I need them. Here's a simple trick, I make it a habit to cut up the cutest scraps right away into 1.5" squares and sort them by color into a simple acrylic organizer box.
That way, I have them handy when I need them for fabric stamps, hang tags or smaller sewing projects like these pincushions. Plus that box is really pretty to look at, don't you think?
I also cut up some Dresden plate pieces every once in a while and keep them in another box sorted the same way. I like making these tiny Dresden plates, just because they're so super cute, and I can really make use of the smallest fabric pieces. For cutting Dresden plate pieces I use the Darlene Zimmerman Dresden Acrylic Ruler.
This awesome pincushion is also called Deluxe pincushion and is a super cute pattern from the book Sew organized for the Busy girl by Heidi Staples.
It's a great pattern and a quick and easy make.
This is an absolutely perfect pattern for all kinds of fabric scraps.
You can use them color coordinated or by theme, make a little fairytale pincushion, or one with just flowers, a Christmas themed one or use very modern little scraps.
I'm sure you will find tons of inspiration when you go through you fabric.
Mini Dresden plate pincushion:
finished size aprox 4"x 4"
Fabrics/ materials needed:
- 12 1.5" Dresden plate pieces
- 2 pieces of fabric 4.5"x 4.5"
- 1 basted 1" hexie, paper taken out.
- 1 piece 4.5"x 4.5" fusible interfacing
-a hand full of fiberfill, or your prefered pincushion stuffing material
Sewing the pincushion:
1. Cut all the fabrics as mentioned above. Cut 12 1.5" Dresden plate pieces. (photo 1)
2. Fold the Dresden plate pieces in half , lengwise , right sides together
and stitch along the top edge ( wider part of blade) with a 1/4" seam allowance. (photo 2)
Chain piecing these blades makes this step super easy.
3. Cut off the corners (as shown in photo 3) at a 45° angle, this gives you nice, sharp points.
4. Turn each blade's sewn end right sides out. It usually just takes a finger to create a sharp point as you make that turn, but if necessary use a pencil to push the point outward. Be careful not to push too hard or cut through the fabric. Then press these.
5. Sew the Dresden Plate blades together by aligning the side edges right sides together with a 1/4" seam allowance from top to bottom, then press seam allowance open.
After sewing the full circle, press the entire Dresden plate.
Note: Most Dresden Plates are made with a 18° wedge ruler ( like the one I used), this means technically to form a full circle it would require 20 blades ( 18 x 20 = 360), but I use only 12 for this pincushion. Otherwise the full Dresden Plate would be too big and wouldn't fit on a small 4.5" square. The Dresden plate is so small, that it works just fine after pressing the full circle with 12 blades . And there will be a hexie placed on top anyways.
Or you could us a 30° wedge ruler ( 30 x 12 = 360)
6. Stitch the Dresden plate onto one of the 4.5" x 4.5" pieces of fabric. Mark a cross in the center of the square to make placing the Dresden plate easier.
7. Place basted hexie ( paper taken out! ) on top and stitch in place.
8. Iron on fusible interfacing and place back 4.5"x 4.5" piece of fabric on top, right sides together and stitch around along the raw edges leaving a 2" opening for turning the pincushion.
Cut the corners at a 45° angle, this gives you nice and sharp corners after turning.
9. Turn your pincushion right side out, and fill the pincushion with fiberfill or your preferred pincushion stuffing material. Press the opening under 1/4" and stitch closed by hand.
The cutest little pincushions made entirely from fabric scraps, are all done .....
Aren't they just darling?
Have lots of fun sewing up all your fabric scraps.
A design collab with Riley Blake Designs - 'From the heart' fabric collection by Sandy Gervais
Everybody needs pot-holders in the kitchen, and if they're this cute, even better, right?
So how about pulling out some fabric and getting started.
These are super easy to make and will be a perfect gift for any passionate cook.
finished size 8"x 10"
Fabrics needed per pot-holder:
- finished cupcake quilt block 8"x 8"
- cut 2 pieces of fabric for backing 8 1/2"x 10 1/2"
- cut 1 piece of fabric 8 1/2"x 8 1/2" for pocket lining
- 1 piece of fusible interfacing 8 1/2"x 8 1/2" for pocket
- 1 piece of fusible interfacing 8 1/2"x 10 1/2" for backing
- 1 piece of insul-brite 8 1/2"x 10 1/2" for backing
- cut 1 strip of fabric 1 1/2"x 10" as binding for pocket
- cut 1 strip of fabric 2"x 6" or use ribbon for hanging tab
- bias tape 2"x 40" for pot-holder binding
Sewing the potholder:
1. Finish the cup cake quilt block ( shop pattern here ) in size 8"x 8"
2. Cut all of your fabric pieces as mentioned above.
3. Iron on fusible interfacing to your quilt block .
Then lay pocket lining piece of fabric face down on flat surface and lay quilt block face up on top of it. Clip or pin in place.
4. Quilt as desired, to hold these layers together.
I did 1" diagonal squares. I used my acrylic ruler and a fabric chalk pen to draw the lines.
5. Trim to 8"x 8" size.
6. Iron on the fusible interfacing to one of the backing fabrics.
Place the other backing fabric face down on a flat surface. Position the insul-brite on top of it and finish off with the backing/fusable interfacing piece, face up.
Pin or clip all three layers in place.
Quilt as desired, I did 1" diagonal squares again, as with the pocket piece.
Make the hanging tab: ( or use a strip of ribbon)
- Fold the 2"x 6" strip in half lengthwise and press. Fold in 1/4" seam allowance on each long raw edge and press again.
- Stitch with small seam allowance.
- Fold the tab in half and clip in place at the center of the back of your pot-holder.
7. Binding for the pocket:
Take the strip of fabric 1 1/2"x 10" and pin it to the top of the cupcake pocket with the raw edges aligned and stitch in place with 1/4" seam allowance. ( photo 1)
Fold the binding over to the back ( photo 2) and stitch in place ( photo 3)
Finished binding seen from the front ( photo 4)
Trim the ends.
8. Place the quilted pocket piece on top of the backing ,
aligning the side and the bottom raw edges. Clip or pin in place.
9. Round the corners of your pot-holder.
I drew a 1/4 circle at the corners first and then cut it.
here's a template for the corners, cut it along the black line.
10. Fold the bias tape over 1/4" at one end of the binding strip and clip or pin in place around the pot-holder with the end overlapping about 1/2" ( photo 1 ) .
Stitch in place. ( photo 2 ).
Fold the binding over to the backof the pot-holder and then hand stitch in place.
Et voila .... all done.
Thank you so much to Riley Blake Designs for supplying the absolutely adorable
'From the Heart' fabric series designed by Sandy Gervais that I used
in this super cute project.
This pattern is perfect for any 8"x 8" quilt block.
I can't wait to see your makes. How do you like these pot-holders?
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