Foundation Paper Piecing
is my favorite quilting technique.
And as the name says, paper is one of the main foundation piecing supplies.
Foundation paper piecing is used to create very accurate stitches and lines on a design, and I loooove accuracy, I’m a Virgo after all.
But for me, it is also a great method to sew a stunning quilt block in a fairly short amount of time.
You get amazing results without having to sew up an entire quilt.
Whether you want to make some last minute gifts, some remarkable
pillowcase or table runner for your home, this quilting technique is fun and easy.
If you're new to this technique it can feel daunting, but don't despair, I wrote a great tutorial on how to master paper piecing in no time.
When I first tried foundation paper piecing, I did not know a thing,
and I mean really NOT a thing.
I had an older quilting book, and decided to make one of the quilt blocks.
I hadn't heard about foundation paper piecing before nor what it was about,
or what supplies are needed.
The pattern asked for paper, but did not specify what kind of paper, so I just used whatever paper I had at hand.
As I worked my way through the FPP world I have worked with all sorts of papers and here’s what I think:
Your choice of paper for foundation paper piecing depends on:
b) scale of your project
c) ease of use
d) whether you like to work with a fabric glue pen or not.
I also talk about paper for foundation piecing in my new book 'Adorable Animal Quilting'.
Regular printer paper:
At the moment, this is my choice of paper. It’s easy to use and cost effective;
This is especially important since I am doing A LOT OF paper piecing.
I can print any pattern right from my computer.
And it is still thin enough to not be a headache when removing.
Personal tips for the use of regular printer paper:
> use regular printing paper in combination with a fabric glue pen. A fabric glue pen will be your life saver and you will never want to work without one again.
> after you have joined two segments, remove the paper only from the seam allowance before pressing, that way you get nice flat seams (use a Tailor's clapper for extra flat seams)
Freezer paper works great with foundation piecing. It is easy, because you can just iron the fabric onto the paper and nothing slides off or moves, and obviously you don’t need a fabric glue pen.
It can become costly when you paper piece a lot.
However, it’s a little bit thicker than regular printing paper and can get pretty bulky, especially when small pieces are involved. Because of its thickness, it’s not as easy to remove afterward.
Personal tips for the use of freezer paper:
> use freezer paper for blocks with large fabric areas, the possiblility of ironing on the fabric is absolutly wonderful for bigger fabric pieces.
> again, definitely remove the paper from the seam allowance after joining two segments
before pressing the segments. This assures that you get flat seams.
(use a Tailor's clapper for extra flat seams)
It’s wonderfully thin and perfect for tracing. It can also be used in your printer.
Another advantage is, that it’s very easy to remove when finished.
However, it can become quite costly if you do a lot of paper piecing.
And it tends to curl if ironed on.
Personal tip for the use of foundation paper:
> use it for blocks with tiny pieces in combination with a fabric glue pen.
I personally like a little more structure and firmness in my blocks when sewing them,
but if you prefer softness, this is the paper for you.
> do not iron too much as it tends to curl up with heat, just very quickly and then
use a Tailor's clapper or another heavy object to flatten the seams.
It’s probably best to experiment with different papers, to find out which ones you like best, so what better way to do this, than with a free foundation paper piecing pattern.
Happy testing ! Let me know what you think.
Did this happen to you before?
A stunning and cute quilt block catches your attention, you read the description,
and it says it's paper pieced, so you're like......
OH NO, I cant do that!
But I can assure you ( Obama style ) YES YOU CAN!
I've been there, and trust me confusion took over me and I thought to myself :
What do they mean, it's done on the reverse side? And how do I place the paper?
And why this and what that?
BUT first things first:
You want to master paper piecing once and for all?
You dont want to miss out on all those stunning quilt blocks that are paper pieced?
Then read this blog post slowly, with you pattern at hand.
You can also download this free pattern here to start practicing.
Or if you like this star pattern , then grab it here.
First and foremost, take your time to practice now and you'll be good to go for ever.
1. The pattern
the pattern usually consists of
a numbered overview, with letters and numbers on it.
a colored overview ( so you have some inspiration)
a blank overview ( this is for you to color yourself)
and your pattern segments, again lettered and numbered,
Each segment features only one letter, but has several numbers, this is the sequence of your sewing.
Think of your pattern as a puzzle, each segment is one piece of your puzzle.
2. A few simple tips:
Place the numbered overview in front of you.
Cut out the pattern segments, along the dotted lines ( this is the seam allowance).
Place the segments beside your pattern acording to the numbered overview.
This is pretty obvious with the star pattern,
but it becomes really important and comes in super handy with more complex patterns.
3. Reverse side or mirrored image:
As I mentioned before, foundation paper piecing is done on the reverse side of your paper.
This means your pattern is your sewing aid only.
Not as with 'normal' patterns, where you cut the fabric according to the pattern.
I think this is the most important part about paper piecing, and can't be emphasised enough.
NOTE: The paper is just your sewing aid .
The paper is your base where you sew on, the lines of the pattern are your sewing lines. The block will emerge on the unprinted side of the pattern. And will therefore be a mirrored image of the numbered overview.
> numbered overview > finished block
4. Sart sewing
It doesn't matter which segment you sew first, you want to sew them all anyways,
so start wherever you want.
I will start with segment A here, just because I like starting from the right today :-)
> set your sewing machine to 1.5 stitches /cm or 16-18 stitches/inch this will make sure
the stitces perforate the paper nicely, but are not too close, so they don’t rip the paper.
This will also make it easyer to remove the paper after you finish sewing your block.
> Turn the first segment over so the wrong side (unprinted side) is facing you. Place the
piece of fabric for section 1 right side up, onto the paper, making sure there’s
¼ to ½ inch of fabric around the perimeter of section 1.
Be generous in the beginning; once you are familiar with foundation paper piecing,
you can cut your fabrics a bit smaller.
> Pin or glue this fabric in place. I prefer fabric glue. Everything stays nicely in place.
> Turn the pattern segment over so the printed side is facing you. Fold the pattern on
the line between section 1 and 2. ( I do this using a postcard, this gives you a
nice straight and crisp fold)
> Trim fabric 1 to a ¼” seam allowance using an acrylic ruler and rotary cutter.
There is a specilty ruler for this, it's called ADD-A-Quarter-Ruler , which has a 1/4" lip and
gives you a perfect 1/4" seam allowance. But any other ruler will work just as fine.
> Choose the fabric for section 2 the same way you did for section 1, making sure the
fabric covers the whole of section 2 and aprox ¼ - ½ ” around the perimeter of
> Place fabric for section 2, right sides together with fabric 1.
Aligning the raw edges of the two fabrics along the fold between section1 and 2.
> Now, stitch along the fold between sections 1 and 2, right on the line. The more precisely
you sew, the easier it will be to align your segments! If the line that’s being sewn starts
or finishes at the ¼-inch seam allowance, extend that line right through the
seam allowance by sewing all the way through it!
> Flip open fabric 2 so the right sides of the fabrics are showing and press with a hot iron
(no steam, as this can distort your fabric and paper ).
Now you choose the fabric for section 3 the same way you did for the other two.
Folding now the pattern at the line between section 2 and 3 and so on.
You then sew each section the same way. Adding the fabrics in numerical order, as they appear on each segment.
> When you're done sewing the segments, cut excess fabric along the dotted line.
> Place the trimmed segments as they are on the numbered overview. This just
makes your life so much easier when sewing the segments together.
> Now sew the segments together according to the assembly instructions in the pattern.
> After sewing two segments together, remove the paper only from the seam allowance
and press the seams open with hot iron (no steam) as flat as possible. (This is where
the tailors clapper comes in very handy , see blog post about clapper here. ) This helps
reduce bulk, especially when there are several layers of fabric. It also helps keep
your overall size accurate.
before tailors clapper after tailors clapper
> After piecing all the segments, remove the remaining paper and use the iron to press
your finished block.
And that's it .................. ALL DONE.
You can also watch a tutorial video here.
What do you think? Doable, right?
You will be a paper piecing STAR in no time.
How to quickly sew a zippered pouch with flat bottom?
And a beautiful way to use the lips and/ or moustache quilt block pattern
from my face mask ....... once you're masked out, like me :-)
One can NOT have to many zippered pouches, it's like shoes... you can never ever have too many, right?
Zippered pouches are super easy to make and you can use them for anything and everything literally all the time.
I'll show you how quick and easy it is, to make one of these beauties using my lips quilt block pattern from the lips mask pattern. This pattern is kind of made for a pouch, because it has the perfect size.
Fabric requirements and materials needed:
- lips quilt block finished 9.5" x 7.5"
- fabric for the back 9.5" x 7.5"
- 2x strips of solid fabric 2.5" x 9.5"
- lining fabric 2 x 9.5" x 9.5"
- medium weight fusable interfacing 2 x 9.5"x 9.5"
- 9 " zipper ( if your zipper is too long, check ou this post on how to quickly shorten a zipper )
- clips or pins
- scissors or rotay cutter
- ruler, thread and sewing machine.
DIY ZIPPER POUCH with foundation paper piecing detail:
This completed zipper pouch measures approx. 8" at the top, 7" at the bottom and is about 3" wide at the bottom. This is a perfect size bag for make up, or sewing notions and would easily fit in you handbag .
1. Sew the lips quilt block according to the pattern. It should mesure 9.5" x 7.5" when finished.
2. Cut your back fabric , lining fabric and fabric strips according to the mesurements given.
3. Stich the solid fabric strips to the bottom of the quilt block and to the bottom of your back fabric.
4. Iron on the fusable interfacing to your front and back panel.
5. Cut out 1.5"x 1.5" corners at the bottom of your outside panels and your lining.
This will give you your bottom corners of the pouch.
6. Fold the corners so the edges are facing each other and stitch along the 1.5" edge.
This creates a boxed corner. Sew all 8 corners like that.
7. Attach the zipper to the front panel right side of front panel facing you and right side of zipper facing down.
Sew the zipper first to the front panel and then to the back, again right side of zipper against the right side of the fabric.
8. Place the lining right sides together on top of outside panel and sew along top edge.
Repeat for the back.
9. Optional: Stitch a top seam along the zipper from the outside,
10. UNDO THE ZIPPER ! This is important for turning the pouch later :-)
And stitch all the way around the pouch , except a 6" turning gap along the bottom of the lining using a 1/4" seam allowance.
11. Turn the bag right side out. Fold the edges of your turning gap in and stitch to close.
12. Fold lining inside and..... TADAHHH :-)
What do you think?
Btw. if you're interested in News and Coupons for future pattern releases, subscribe to my Newsletter here on my site:-)
How to shorten a nylon zipper ? A super short and quick way to solve this problem.
Dont we all know the situation where we want to quickly sew a gift or project, like a pouch or bag, and we do have all the fabrics and supplies but... Oh No... the zipper is too long.
Don't despair, there's an easy solution :-)
1. Start by measureing your zip and marking your needed length.
IMPORTANT: zippers are measured from the zipper top, not the zipper tape.
I can not tell you how often I fogot that!
The marked point is where you will be sewing your new bottom stopper.
2. I usually machine stitch over the marked point a few times. But you can also hand stich over that point a few times , that does the trick just as well.
This new stopper needs to be tight and secure to prevent the zip from running off the end. Remember it's calles a 'stopper ' for a reason .
- sewn by machine - - sewn by hand -
3. Once you have sewn your new bottom stopper you can cut the zipper.
I've cut this zipper fairly short, since I will be using it for a zipper pouch.
Depending on your sewing project, you cn cut it a little longer.
The process is the exact the same for an invisable zipper of course.
And here it is, a perfect 9" zipper for a cute flat bottom pouch :-)
If you want to sew this cute pouch, check out the blog post for the pouch here.
How to sew a quick and easy face mask at home?
As it becomes more and more evident that we will all be wearing face masks soon whenever we go out, I 'll show you a quick and easy way to make your own face masks.
You'll probably want to make several face masks, as they should be washed frequently,
preferably after each wear.
This is a free face mask pattern.
The CDC says homemade cloth masks can help slow the spread of the coronavirus.
These fabric masks can help protect you in places like the grocery store, public transport, pharmacy and so on, where it's harder to keep a safe six-foot distance from other people. This works best if everyone wears them because people who don't have any symptoms can still be spreading the virus.
As more information about the coronavirus pandemic develops, some of the information in this blog may have changed since it was last updated. For the most up-to-date information on COVID-19, please visit the online resources provided by the CDC, WHO, and your local public health department.
Whats the best fabric to use for a home made face mask?
Researchers tested the effectiveness of a wide range of materials for homemade masks. They measured how well the materials you have in your household could capture and filter small particles.
Test data shows that the best choices for DIY fabric masks are tightly woven cotton materials, such as sheets, or other cotton materials. Using a double layer of material for your DIY mask adds a small increase in filtration effectiveness.
Other research found that the most effective masks were constructed of two layers of heavyweight “quilters cotton” with a thread count of at least 180, or had a thicker and tighter weave.
As I am a quilter, and have a ‘small’ selection of quilters cotton in my home, this pattern is made with quilters cotton on the outside and cotton sheet as a lining.
This face mask pattern has 2 layers of cotton fabric.
Fabric and material requirements:
Men/ large :
Outside fabric: 10”x 7,5”
Lining fabric: 7”x 7,5”
Elastic band approx.: 2 x 9”
if you’re using cotton ties or ribbon, you need 4 strips of approx. 15”-18” length. If the ties are too long, just cut them down to the size you need.
Outside fabric: 9”x 7”
Lining fabric 7”x 7”
Elastic band: 2 x 7,5”
Outside fabric: 8”x 6,5”
Lining fabric: 6,5”x 6,5”
Elastic band: 2 x 7”
Cut the fabric and elastic depending on the size you want to sew.
Place your fabrics right sides together leaving a 1" seam allowance on each side.
If you want, pin or clip in place.
First you sew one seam about 1/4" from to edge. ( If you used pins or clips, you take them out now)
Then place the wire centered between the two layers of fabric against your seam.
Fold the fabric back right sides together and sew a second sean about 1/8" from the previous seam.
Then sew a third seam, again with a 1/4"seam allowance, along the bottom edge.
When you're done sewing, turn the face mask right side out and iron the seams.
Fold 2 evenly-spaced 1/2" pleats. Pin or clip in place and sew to secure. the width of your mask should be about 4" for the large mask ( 3,5" for the medium mask and 3" for the small one.)
Fold over the seam allowance at the sides twice 1/2" and pin in place.
insert eleastic , or ribbon or cotton tie as shown above. In case your ribbon or cotton tie is too thick you can just attach it on top as well.
With a 3/8″ seam allowance, sew each side of the facemask with two seams. Backstitch over the elastic or fabric ties to secure them.
And there it is, all done :-)
I made two of these masks for my husband and son,
Guess ( from the fabric used :-)) what kind of work my two men are doing?
happy guessing :-)
Are you looking for something fun ?
How about these two beauties? Fun face masks for Mr. and Mrs :-)
You can shop the pattern here.
1. What is the Tailor’s Clapper?
It’s a piece of wood, used by tailors (duhhh) to get flat, crisp seams or creases.
It originated in the dressmaking world, so the seams got nice and flat without getting shiny from ironing.
Imagine some pants in a delicate material, let’s say silk. If you just iron the side seams,
the seam allowance will shine through and the seam will be shiny on top as well,
any dressmakers nightmare. Not so with the clapper.
2. How is the Tailor’s Clapper used?
You iron your seam briefly and then place the clapper onto your seam.
The heat of the iron will be absorbed slowly by the wood so it stays in the fabric long enough to flatten the seams nicely.
3. What kind of wood is used for a Tailor's clapper?
Tailor’s clappers are made out of hardwood. The wood has to be heavy and close-grained in order to do the job perfectly. The weight matters as well as the close-grain wood. If the clapper is to light or not dense enough the heat will be absorbed to quickly and ultimately your seams would not be as flat as you wish.
Incredibly nice , crisp and ultra flat seams.
4.Why use the Tailor’s clapper for quilting?
Especially with Foundation Paper Piecing flat seams are key to precision and accuracy.
You might say, why not just iron those seams? And yes you are right, but first of all you cannot iron with steam, as this may distort your paper, or dissolve the ink on your pattern and stain the fabric. And second, you can’t iron for too long, because it might discolor your fabric.
But you need nice and flat seams, in order for your blocks to fit together perfectly.
This is where the tailor’s clapper comes in super handy.
As I mentioned before, you iron your seams quickly and the place the clapper on top.
That way the heat of the iron is ‘trapped’ under the clapper long enough to nicely flatten your perfect seams.
Tipp for joining segments:
Sew two segments together acording to the pattern.
Remove the paper ONLY from the seam allowance and press with a hot dry iron quickly,
then leave your clapper on the seam for a few minutes till the fabric cools off.
I actually use that time to sew the next segment :-)
You will get the nicest and flattest seams ever.
Happy clapping....ahhh sewing :-)
5. Can I make my own Tailor's clapper?
You absolutely could make your own, if you wanted to.
Here are some good instructions to do so.
But these Tailor’s clappers are also available online from many stores, form
Amazon, Nancy's Notions to Etsy.
Shop palm tree pattern here.
Travelling inspires ...
We spent spring break in Africa last April. Marocco to be exact and Marrakech to be even more precise.
We're very lucky, it's not far from here to travel to, and it's one of my favorite places on the planet. We always stay right in the middle of the Medina in a Riad. Just writing about it makes me miss it again, and I can hear the sounds and smell the scents... ahhh, it's nothing short of amazing.
The city of Marrakech is surrounded by the Atlas mountain range and the desert.
Therefore you'll find many camel riding and desert tours.
The first time, we stayed at an Oasis outside the city many years ago, inspired me to design my camel quilt block pattern.
This time, I added some other African animals to my animal series, the elephant family.
These are some of my favorite quilt block patterns ever.
They are not only fantastic for all sorts of quilted items, such as pillowcases and table runners, but they will look fantastic as a wall hanging as well , in any room really.
I get asked all the time, what other ways, besides the ones mentioned above, there are to use these blocks, well I thought the elephants would be perfect for fabric baskets...
tadaahh (almost the sound of an elephant, right ?)
For some reason they suit the round form of the basket, don't you agree?
As you can see, there are many ways to use these baskets, I'm using mine in the bathroom for towels and hair stuff, but the possibilities are endless.
You will find the pattern for the baskets here.
Chosing fabric for your quilting projects can sometimes seem overwhelming
and will and should take some time and consideration.
Not knowing where to start holds you back from doing it at all?
Sounds familiar? I have been there.
You enter a fabric store and the selection is so stunning and colorful, you don't even
know where to start? And you love everything you see and want to buy it all?
Trust me... been there , done that...
But it doesn't have to be that way.
Look at it like shopping for a pair of shoes, the ultimate fun right ?
You get to browse the stores, try out shoes, imagine yourself in them, and finally find the
They look good, fit perfectly and aren't too expensive :-)
It's the same with fabric, since you will likely invest quite some time in your
sewing project... your fabric will be your foundation and it should be a great fit.
1.) First of all, there's two ways to shop for fabric
one: in your favorite local fabric store or
Depending on your experience your local fabric store is definitely the best choice
as a beginner. You can touch the fabric and ask the store owner/ sales clerk
for help as well. You can admire the colorful shelves, pull out fabric, place them next to each other. Find pre-coordinated bundles of different designers and get tons of inspiration.
If you're more experienced you will also enjoy online shopping , you probably know some fabric designers and their lines, you have a pretty good sense of what you're looking for? Perfect, that makes online fabric shopping so much easier.
I personally prefer fabric shopping in a fabric store. There's nothing like actually
touching fabric and laying it out together to see if the choices 'feel' good together.
A personal tip for either way of shopping : take your time and enjoy the process.
2.)The next step is looking at your pattern.
What do you want to achieve? Something fun and colorful, or something classy ?
What occasion is it for?
What look do you want to create? Modern, whimsical, romantic?
Who is the quilt or quilted project for?
What colorways do you like?
It's always good to think about this in advance, it saves you from confusion in the store or online and also from spending too much or too little because you're getting overwhelmed.
Kind of like knowing whether you need boots or sandals, and whether you need them for hiking or a wedding :-)
Here's an example:
I colored my Chinese New Year quilt patterns in two different colorways.
(btw. each one of my patterns has a coloring page for you, so you can try out different options for yourself and can see beforehand which way you want to go.)
Warm colors and more traditional for Chinese New Year, or cool and crisp and more unique for the occasion.
I went for the warm and traditional version,
probably cause those are also my favorite colors of all times.
3.) The third step will be combining fabrics of the desired colorway.
This doesn't mean using all of them, certainly not, but it gives you a good look at all the different options.
It also shows you which prints or solids will work fine and which ones won't work at all.
This process is essentially the same in a fabric store.
We all have favorite colors and/or favorite print patterns.
There are solids, small scale prints, large scale prints, flowers, paisleys, stripes or the cutest little novelty prints, the choices seem and are endless.
So most importantly trust your taste.
Build your fabrics around a certain colorway or a focal print or both.
(eg. in the photo above, the two larger scale flower prints carry all the colors of the solids and small scale prints around them)
As a total beginner you can always start out with bundles of fabrics.
These are pre-coordinated by designer, collection or color and make it very easy to start out with your project.
Here are two finished versions of the balloon lantern pattern. As you can see, you achieve completely different results of the exact same pattern just with the fabrics.
4.) For Foundation Paper Piecing it is quite important to work with contrasts, otherwise the colors will blend in with each other too much, and the pattern and most importantly your work will not be as noticable.... something I had to learn the hard way :-)
There were quite a few quilt blocks, that I started and never finished because the contrast wasn't enough and it just looked really bland....
So which ever way you start out, or coordinate your fabric,
pick what you like, because you're the expert of your taste ....
and have fun with it, there's hardly anything as nice as fabric shopping.....
except maybe shoe shopping :-)
PS: If you want to enjoy news or coupons for pattern releases, sign up for my newsletter.
Spring is in the air and Easter around the corner,
I want to introduce you to my new Easter Egg quilt block patterns.
These are really easy and fun to make and will be perfect for using up all those leftover fabric scraps you've probably been keeping somewhere in a box or bag for a later use.
Let's get to using some of your cutest scraps.
I like to color coordinate my eggs, but its entirely up to you, you can also make some really colorful eggs as well, or mix and match just two colors in one egg, or use solids,
or just stripes or flowers, the possibilities are endless.
Let your creativity run wild.
This Easter Egg pattern consists of three different egg styles.
Fabric requirements per 6"x 6" finished quilt block:
- for the background fabric: aprox. 10" x 10" piece of fabric
- for the eggs any fabric scraps you have left over ( 12 pieces abt 2"x 3" )
These three different egg versions are so versatile and make it super fun to use those small fabric scraps. If you want, you can use some cute novelty prints and fussy cut them into the eggs for a little more excitement. You could make some 'I spy' Easter egg place mats for your Easter meals. Wouldn't that be super adorable? Of course a table runner would be equally fantastic.
Let's make one egg together....
I'm going to show you how to make one of the eggs.
I'm choosing orange, since I have quite some orange scraps leftover and also because
I haven't made an orange egg yet.
The egg block size is going to be 6"x 6" (plus 1/4" seam allowance so it will be a 6"x 6" finished block) and it's really quick and easy to make.
A whole bunch of orange fabric scraps and the cut out pattern segments,
that's all I need for the kaleidoscope egg version.
Fabric requirements are :
- 10"x 10" fabric for the background
- and 12 little scraps of 2"x 3"
There are 4 segments in this pattern. Sew up each segment as you would in any foundation paper piecing pattern. If you're new to foundation paper piecing, there's a tutorial with step by step pictures here on my website, or a detailed video tutorial here.
I think I will be making a rainbow Easter egg table runner and will keep you all posted on the details. For now you can enjoy these colorful eggs and decide for yourselves what to make out of them.
Happy Easter to all of you. xo
The wildfires are devastating,
with images of burning forests and dying animals, we feel helpless.
We want to do something, but we’re not sure how.
Here's what we found helps the most at the moment:
Many of the emergency relief services have said the best option right now is cash.
The money can then be directed to those who need it, and it doesn’t require storage like physical items.
Please be aware as usual – unfortunately there are quite lot of scams at the moment for fundraising – so do your research when choosing who to donate to.
That beeing said...
I have designed a koala pattern and 100% of the proceeds throughout January 2020,
of this cute pattern will be donated to @therescuecollective
to help support their amazing rescue efforts in Australia....
Renate Kämmer @rlebt has been helping for days now to raise awareness,
and her work is amazing! Thank you sooo much Renate.
If you were thinking of making a koala quilt block, koala pillowcase, table runner,
back pack or whatever else, now is the perfect time....
In case you want to help, but would like a different pattern,
there are many other pattern designers out there, that support this cause ...
Check out the following accounts on Instagram if you're interested.
They are donating all or some of their proceeds towards the wildlife rescue.
Here are some of the fantastic quilt blocks that so many people made
with my Koala pattern....
(Feb 2020: we were able to raise over 1,000 Euros for The rescue collective...
How amazing is that? Thank you sooo much everyone who participated in this effort )